Visiting Bodegas Protos begins with a cinematic view. Up top of a hill is the towering silhouette of Peñafiel Castle, perched high above the valley. Just below it, the winery itself; modern, sculptural, and seamlessly built into the hillside. It’s like the past is watching over the present.
The castle once defended the region; now the mountain beneath it protects something quieter but no less powerful: wine. Protos, meaning “first” in Greek, was the region’s original winery, and nearly a century later, it continues to shape the story of Ribera del Duero with every bottle it produces.
From underground cellars carved into stone to a stylish aperitivo beneath the shadow of a castle, here’s everything I discovered while visiting Bodegas Protos.
Menu
History of Bodegas Protos
Into the Cellars
The Tasting Experience
Overall Thoughts
History of Bodegas Protos
The history of Bodegas Protos is the story of Ribera del Duero. In 1927, a group of eleven winegrowers (who were also childhood friends) from Peñafiel came together with a shared vision: to create wines that could stand shoulder to shoulder with Europe’s finest. They called their venture Protos, from the Greek word for “first,” and true to its name, it quickly made history.
The gamble paid off almost immediately. The winery’s very first vintages (1927 and 1928) were awarded gold medals at the 1929 Universal Exposition of Barcelona, putting Ribera del Duero on the map well before it became an official appellation. At the time, the region was just a rugged landscape and a handful of passionate growers. For a young cooperative from a little-known region, it was a thunderous debut.
Fast forward nearly a century, and the legacy continues to grow. Today, Bodegas Protos works with more than 250 local growers and over 1,600 hectares of vines across Ribera del Duero… half of which it owns outright. The rest is cultivated through long-standing partnerships. And perhaps most remarkably, three of the original founders’ grandchildren still sit on the board of directors, carrying forward the vision their families began nearly 100 years ago.
It’s rare to see that kind of continuity in modern wine, and rarer still to see it flourish on this scale. Protos may have started as a local experiment, but it has become a flagship. Not just for Ribera del Duero, but for Spanish wine as a whole.
Into the Cellars
From the outside, Bodegas Protos is a bold contrast to the castle above. But the read magic begins once you step underground.
More than two kilometers of cellars stretch beneath the mountain, carved directly into the mountain beneath Peñafiel Castle. Cool, dark, and hushed, they offer the kind of natural humidity and temperature that winemakers dream of. The scent of oak, stone, and time wraps around you as you walk past thousands of barrels and bottles, ageing slowly in silence. Every task in these cellars (racking, cleaning, stacking…) is done entirely by hand, preserving the traditions that have guided this winery since its founding.
There are around 3,000 barrels here, a careful mix of French and American oak, none older than four years. Larger foudres – used only for specific vintages that demand more oxygen – stand quietly in reserved corners, waiting for something special. Every wine undergoes malolactic fermentation, softening its edges and deepening its character.
Highlights
The cellars feel alive with stories. In the Vinoteque, the original 1927 vintage (the very wine that won Protos international acclaim at the Universal Exposition of Barcelona!) is proudly displayed. Today’s Protos ’27 cuvée pays homage to that historic bottle, echoing both its label and its legacy.
Elsewhere, there are little moments of personality tucked into the shadows. In the Sala de los Consejeros, each director and administrator has their own barrel and bottles stored; a fitting bonus in a winery so steeped in pride. Nearby, the Círculo de los Primeros holds bottles belonging to heads of state, actors, and other prominent figures who’ve made their own pilgrimage to Protos.
And then, just when you think you’ve seen it all, the tour ends in the largest barrel room, where a tasting corner offers guests the chance to sample older vintages… a rare and intimate glimpse into the winery’s ageing potential.
A Note About the Architecture
It was only once I returned to the light that I looked up and truly took in the building above. The winery’s contemporary facility, with its curving terracotta roof and soaring vaults, mirrors the surrounding hills and pays subtle homage to both cathedral ceilings and barrel cellars. Designed by Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners (the same firm behind the Pompidou Centre in Paris) it doesn’t try to dominate the landscape. Instead, it reflects it, uplifts it, and reminds you that at Protos, beauty runs deep. Above and below the ground.
The Tasting Experience
At this point, we returned to the boutique upstairs. We ended the visit with a small aperitivo that felt luxuriously simple: jamón ibérico (one of my favourite foods EVER) nestled in soft brioche and anchovies delicately placed on toast, washed down with two beautifully contrasting wines.
First up was Aire de Protos, their pale rosé made from 60% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha , 10 Albillo, 5% Verdejo, 5% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Viura, and 5% Syrah. It was light on its feet. Fresh strawberry and white peach on the nose, with a hint of florals and a crisp minerality. I’ll admit I’m not a rosé enthusiast, and this one didn’t quite convert me, but I can see its appeal: refreshing, and great for a sunny terrace or a late afternoon aperitivo.
Then came the Protos 27 (2019). This wine is named in honour of the winery’s founding year and its label mirrors the original bottle in the Vinoteque. Aged in French oak, this 100% Tinta del País
(the local name for Tempranillo) is memorable. Deep plum and blackberry unfold into warm spice and a gentle smokiness, with tannins that are present but polished. It speaks of Ribera del Duero’s signature intensity.
Overall Thoughts
Visiting Bodegas Protos left me with a deep appreciation for a winery that has managed to grow, modernize, and expand without ever losing sight of where it came from. I love that it still feels so connected to its historic roots, from the original 1927 vintage displayed in the Vinoteque to the quiet, manual work happening in the cellars today.
There’s a certain confidence to Protos. Not flashy, not overreaching. Just quietly consistent, thoughtful, and grounded. The wines reflect that too, especially the Protos 27: expressive and built to last.
If you’re travelling through Ribera del Duero, this is a stop worth making. Not just for the wines or the views, but for the sense of history that runs through it all. At Protos, the past isn’t just preserved… it’s alive, and still very much shaping the future.
Thank you to FINE Wine Tourism Marketplace for for the opportunity of Visiting Bodegas Protos.