There are places where time slows, where history whispers through stone walls and wine glasses alike. Abadía Retuerta is one of those places. Tucked into the heart of Spain’s Duero Valley, this extraordinary estate is the legacy of a millennium of devotion, resilience, and reinvention. I had the privilege of walking its hallowed halls, standing beneath the vaulted ceilings of its chapel, and, most memorably, tasting the wines that define its modern identity. Read all about my experience visiting Abadía Retuerta in this article.
Menu
About Abadía Retuerta
History of Abadía Retuerta
Abbey Highlights
A Unique Terroir
Into the Abadía Retuerta Winery
Tasting Abadía Retuerta Wines
Overall Thoughts
About Abadía Retuerta: A Jewel of the Duero Valley
Located in the province of Valladolid, Abadía Retuerta sits on the banks of the Duero River, surrounded by rolling vineyards that stretch across 700 hectares of pristine landscape. The estate is a luxury hotel, concierge service, and winery with a world-class spa and Michelin-starred restaurant. Though it lies just beyond the official boundaries of Ribera del Duero, Abadía Retuerta boasts a terroir and climate that rival some of the best vineyards in Spain. The meticulously restored 12th-century abbey, now an exquisite Relais & Châteaux property, has earned prestigious recognition, including:
- Three Michelin Keys
- Michelin Star
- Michelin Green Star
- World’s 50 Best Vineyards
With its award-winning hospitality, fine dining, and a portfolio of critically acclaimed wines, the estate stands as a benchmark of Spanish luxury and viticultural innovation.
History of Abadía Retuerta
Monastic Roots
Long before Abadía Retuerta became synonymous with luxury and fine wine, it was a monastery. Around 40 white-cloaked Premonstratensian monks hiked over from France for unknown reasons, finally settling here in 1146. These monks, known for their agricultural know-how and commitment to self-sufficiency, tended the land with care, laying the foundation for a viticultural legacy that continues today. The name “Retuerta” itself speaks to the landscape, meaning “twisting riverbanks”. A nod to the sinuous Duero River that nourishes these vineyards.
The following centuries were tumultuous for the estate. Religious and political upheaval saw the monastery change hands several times. At one point in the 20th century, the vines were even ripped out, the lands converted to grain and cereal farming. Eventually, the Swiss pharmaceutical giant Novartis recognized its potential. They invested in both the restoration of the monastery and the return of its winemaking, even replanting the vineyards between 1988-1991. A spa and fine dining restaurant soon followed.
Today, the historic abbey has been transformed into an exquisite Relais & Châteaux property that has earned multiple prestigious awards in recognition of its unparalleled hospitality.
The Modern Guardians: Leadership & Philosophy
At the helm of Abadía Retuerta is CEO Enrique Valero and winemaker Ángel Anocíbar, both of whom have played instrumental roles in shaping the estate’s contemporary identity. Anocíbar, a Spanish oenologist with experience in Bordeaux, brings a meticulous, terroir-driven approach to winemaking. He pours his passion into understanding each plot, each microclimate, and ensuring that the vineyard’s natural expression is reflected in every bottle.
Abbey Highlights
Abadía Retuerta is a masterpiece of historical architecture. Every detail is thoughtfully curated. The restoration of the abbey has been an intricate labour of love, preserving its monastic serenity and patrimonial significance. Collaborations with internationally renowned Spanish artists and craftsmen infuse it with new life.
The estate boasts an outstanding collection of Spanish carpets, tapestries and furniture, including bargueños. These intricately decorated desks were characteristic of the 16th to 18th centuries. The artwork is equally as impressive, with paintings and sculptures dotting different areas of the abbey. Works by Palma el Joven, one of the last Mannerists of the Renaissance, and Giovanni Paolo Pannini, famous for his classical cityscapes of Venetian Vedutism, are in the collection.
Historian Francisco Sánchez de Puerta guided us through some of the highlights of the estate:
Main Staircase
One of the most breathtaking elements of the restoration is the main staircase ceiling. A devastating fire ravaged the estate in the 1600s, effectively burning down part of it. But the monks who once lived here were meticulous chroniclers. Their handwritten records survived the flames, becoming the guides for modern-day restorers who were able to faithfully recreate important features.
Cloisters & Garden
The oldest part of the estate still stands. Bathed in natural light, the magnificent cloister serves as the spiritual and architectural heart of the abbey. The church and other sacred rooms branch out from this centre.
Its graceful arches and carved stone columns enclose a tranquil walled garden. In the summer, the terrace becomes an extension of the restaurant. This is my personal favourite area.
The garden also offers a beautiful view of the church. On top of the bell tower is a protected 300 pound (136 kg) stork nest. If you look closely, you might be able to spot the builders nesting inside.
Sala Capitular
The Sala Capitular, or chapter house, was once a confession room (confessions were public until about the 14th century) before becoming a study room. Today, it is LeDomaine Lounge. It seamlessly maintains historical accuracy with modern touches, blending Roman and Gothic architecture with contemporary furniture. Authentic Flemish bas-reliefs decorate the walls, while a bar offers guests refreshments.
Chapel
Of course, you can’t have a monastery without a chapel. As was customary for the Premonstratensian order, the church of Santa María de Retuerta was designed not only for monastic devotion but also as a parish church for the community. The original architectural vision for the abbey’s church follows a Latin cross layout. But the church was never actually finished. With its missing naves and lack of doorways, it has an unusual design.
There’s more than what first meets the eye here. Spiral staircases lead to hidden rooms. Hints of ancient paint still flecks the ceilings. Between the monks’ departure and the estate’s revival, this church was used to store grain. The resulting humidity wiped the walls of their frescoes, leaving behind a blank canvas.
Over the centuries, Abadía Retuerta’s guilded artworks and altar disappeared, never to be returned. Today, contemporary art is thoughtfully integrated in the church and throughout the abbey, creating a dialogue between the sacred past and contemporary expression. Among the most striking is Rumor de Límites V by Eduardo Chillida, one of the most important Spanish artists of the 20th century.
Renowned German sculptor Ulrich Rückriem also adorns spaces with an Anröchter Dolomite altar and two minimalist sculptures in a side aisle, simply titled Monks. Bathed in sunlight, these abstract figures introduce a quiet modernity to the centuries-old space. A breath of fresh air that both contrasts and complements the solemnity of the surroundings.
A Unique Terroir
Moving on from the hotel, let’s talk wine. Since early 2022, Abadía Retuerta has had its own Protected Designation of Origin (Abadía Retuerta PDO) due to its unparalleled terroir. Despite its sprawling scale, vineyards only cover 192 hectares of the estate’s best soils. They spread across 54 distinct plots (pagos) and are defined by 26 different soils which contribute to the complexity of the wines.
Abadía Retuerta is in a unique location, at the narrowest part of the Duero Valley. The valley’s slopes are closer together here than in other regions, creating some of the the lowest temperatures in the whole province of Valladolid. This phenomenon means that the estate is better than most at adapting to climate change and can plant grape varieties that are not usually grown in the region
Sustainability is key to the estate. Meticulous soil analysis determines which grape varieties to plant in each plot. Three constructed lakes are reservoirs that feed the production site. The production site itself is located in a forest planted by the winery, with special attention to native tree species. These include Pinus Pinea, which produce pine nuts. With dozens of beehives and the use of pheromones instead of pesticides, the area is thriving with biodiversity.
Into the Abadía Retuerta Winery
The Abadía Retuerta winery is as impressive as its luxury hotel. Designed by French consultant Pascal Delbeck, it combines technologically advanced facilities with traditional practices and artistic touches to immerse visitors into the world of these exceptional wines.
The first steps inside the winery reveal the Ángel Anocíbar’s particular attention to terroir. Visitors are greeted by a curated display of soil samples, topographic maps, and vintage archives, offering a sensory introduction to the land’s complexity and evolution.
Interestingly, this is one of Spain’s first fully gravitational wineries, with its two cranes proudly on display. Not only environmentally-friendly, this system ensures gentle handling of the fruit, which are then fermented in temperature-controlled tanks.
Stepping into the barrel rooms at Abadía Retuerta is nothing short of theatrical. The air turns cool and still, perfumed with oak and time. Row upon row of French oak barrels seem to march endlessly into the shadows, stacked high to the ceiling in cathedral-like symmetry. The scale is staggering: a 5,000-barrel capacity, of which only around 100 to 120 are dedicated to white wines. The rest cradle the estate’s red wines, most notably Tempranillo, the heart and soul of Abadía Retuerta’s identity. Each barrel has been carefully selected to elevate, not mask, the wine within.
Tasting Abadía Retuerta Wines
My visit concludes with a tasting of two standout wines: the Cuvee Palomar 2020 and the Negralada 2018. Both were, without a doubt, the finest wines I encountered during my time in Spain, but it was the Cuvée Palomar that captured my heart.
Cuvée Palomar 2020
The 2020 vintage in Spain was a year of dramatic contrasts, marked by early heat, erratic rains, and a noticeable drop in natural acidity. Harvest came nearly a month ahead of schedule. Yet despite the challenges, the vintage delivered wines of remarkable intensity and character. Cuvée Palomar, a limited-production blend of 53% Tempranillo, 30% Garnacha, 13% Graciano, and 4% Malbec, is a shining example of what careful vineyard management and micro-vinification can achieve under pressure.
From the moment the wine is poured, it captivates. The nose unfurls with a tapestry of aromas… forest berries, wild violets, and sun-dried herbs, laced with a whisper of dark chocolate and coffee. A hint of baking spices. On the palate, it is both powerful and poised, with a structure defined by silky tannins and a vibrant core of fruit. The two years spent ageing in French oak lend depth without dominance, allowing the blend’s natural elegance to shine. The finish has a subtle minerality that leaves a lasting impression. I wrote “wow wow wow” in my notes for this one.
Negralada 2018
The 2018 vintage in Spain was marked by equilibrium. After several years of extremes, growers welcomed a more moderate (and wet) season. A cooler spring and early summer allowed for slow, even ripening, while late-season warmth ensured phenolic maturity without sacrificing freshness. This balance is beautifully captured in the Negralada 2018, a 100% Tempranillo wine sourced from a single, exceptional vineyard.
Aged for 16 months in French oak barrels, the wine is a study in restraint and refinement. The nose is an elegant composition: ripe cherry and plum wrapped in notes of cedar, garrigue, and balsamic, with a lingering trace of liquorice and forest floor. The palate is big but graceful, with surprisingly soft tannins and an energizing acidity. Remarkably, it feels almost youthful for its age. Structured and vibrant, with years of life still ahead. Negralada 2018 doesn’t shout to be heard. It’s quiet confidence it draws you in with every sip, with layers of unfolding complexity. This one would be spectacular alongside a meal!
Overall Thoughts
My visit to Abadía Retuerta was nothing short of transformative. From the moment I arrived, I was swept away by the impeccable hospitality; though I wasn’t staying overnight or dining there, every moment was crafted to perfection. The team’s attention to detail was extraordinary, answering all my questions and personalizing my experience in a way that made me feel like part of the estate’s story.
The estate itself is a true gem, its beauty heightened by the careful restoration that honours its rich history while blending seamlessly with modern luxury. And then there were the wines — wow. Each one is a masterpiece, effortlessly reflecting the reverence and craftsmanship of the abbey. These wines are some of the finest I’ve encountered in Spain, and honestly, some of the best I’ve tasted this year so far.
I can’t wait to return (perhaps for a longer stay) to fully experience the restaurant, spa, and all the estate’s offerings. A heartfelt thank you to the FINE Wine Tourism team for orchestrating such an unforgettable visit. If you’re looking for a lavish escape that immerses you in the best that Spain has to offer, Abadía Retuerta is a destination that truly delivers.
